As one of the three elements of clothing, fabric can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly influence the color and shape of clothing. In the big world of clothing, the fabrics of clothing are varied. The characteristics and attributes of each fabric are different. Here we will talk about the classification of fabrics in detail.
1. what?
Fabric features: crepe weave, plain weave, twill weave or other short embossed joint weave. Silk-type woolen fabrics are made of mulberry silk and rayon as the main raw materials, and are woven with crepe and twill weaves, which have the characteristics of luster, soft texture and tight texture.
Samples are: four-dimensional
Fabric features: Wool-like fabric among silk fabrics, with faint horizontal rib-like wrinkles on the front, satin on the back is brighter than the front, dense texture, durable, soft luster, soft and woolen feel.
Fabric application: mainly used for shirts, skirts, jackets, trousers, etc.
2. Velvet
Fabric features: Raised fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and rayon, covered with a layer of fluff or pile loops on the surface of the fabric. The texture is soft, the color is bright and bright, and the fluffy loops are tight.
Types of specifications: the weaves include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and variable weave.
Samples: Leah velvet, burnt-out velvet, decorative velvet.
① Leah velvet
It belongs to the viscose glossy silk fleece fabric produced by the double-layer weaving method, the surface is covered with a layer of fluff, the appearance is gorgeous, full of luster, soft to the touch, good drape, storage and storage should not be heavy pressure, used to make dresses, curtains, curtains , sofa release, or used as a gift box mounting material.
② burnout velvet
Nylon (or polyester) is used as the ground fabric, and the velvet on the surface is viscose glossy silk. Taking advantage of the different reactivity of the two fibers to acids, the fabric is partially treated with acid, and the viscose at the acid is corroded, leaving The most popular is nylon fabric and viscose suede that has not been exposed to acid, which is called burnt-out suede.
It is highly decorative, gorgeous and elegant, and is a partial suede fabric with three-dimensional concave-convex effects. Suitable for women's high-end clothing, evening dresses, national costumes and decorative cloth.
③ decorative velvet
It is a velvet fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose silk. The bottom is made of strong twisted mulberry silk. The surface velvet is glossy viscose silk. The fluff is short, dense and flat, soft and elastic. After finishing, it is decorated with sequins to achieve a shiny, bright and luxurious effect.
Suitable for high-end clothing, evening dresses, performances, etc.
3. Brocade
Fabric features: Brocade is a jacquard fabric with satin pattern, which is interwoven with mulberry silk and rayon. It is dyed first and then woven. The color of the weft silk is above three colors. It is one of the traditional silk fabrics with a history of more than 3,000 years in China. In some fabrics Bright and beautiful metal wires are also woven into the fabric, some as many as six or seven colors. The texture of the brocade is thick and plump, and the patterns used are mostly dragons, phoenixes, cranes, plums, orchids, bamboos, chrysanthemums, and the characters "Fu, Lu, Shou, Xi" and "Auspicious Ruyi" and other ethnic patterns.
Specifications and types: There are many varieties of brocades. There are four famous traditional Chinese brocades: Shu brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade and Zhuang brocade.
Application of fabrics: Brocade fabrics are mostly used as decorative fabrics, such as brocade table blankets, brocade bedspreads, brocade quilt covers for interior decoration, and the covers of various high-end gift boxes and the binding of valuable books. In terms of clothing, it is mostly used to make ties, belts, cotton-padded jacket fabrics and robes of ethnic minorities.
Samples include: Song Brocade, Brocade, and Antique Satin.
① Song Jin
Song brocade is called Song brocade because it imitated the colorful brocade woven in Song Dynasty.
Fabric features: Most of its patterns are filled with patterns such as dragons, unicorns, decorative flowers and characters in relatively regular geometric figures such as circles and polygons. The graphics are mostly arranged in squares and diamonds. The weaving is exquisite, antique and simple. Quaint, gorgeous and solemn, the color and pattern have obvious national style and Song Dynasty characteristics.
Fabric application: suitable for costumes, silk lining of boxes, calligraphy and painting binding, etc.
② Brocade
It is the most delicate product among silk fabrics.
Fabric features: thick, tight and firm texture, flat satin body, brilliant and dazzling color, usually more than three colors, up to seven to ten colors, belonging to high-grade jacquard satin fabric. Most of the patterns are plum, bamboo, chrysanthemum and so on.
Fabric application: suitable for high-end clothing such as women's cheongsam, tops, casual clothes, pajamas, dresses and ethnic minority festival costumes.
③ antique satin
Fabric features: It is basically the same as brocade, the only difference is that the antique satin mostly has more ethnic patterns such as quaint landscapes, pavilions and pavilions.
Fabric application: suitable for high-end clothing such as women's cheongsam, tops, casual clothes, pajamas, dresses and ethnic minority festival costumes.
4. Ti
Use filament as warp, cotton yarn or wax yarn as weft, and plain weave interwoven silk fabric. There are tis in the silk fabrics of the Western Han Dynasty. The texture of the rice is thick and compact, and the texture is simple and clear.
It can be divided into wired rice and wax yarn rice.
Samples are: Thread Tiles (with rayon as warp and cotton yarn as weft)
thread
It is made of rayon and cotton thread, and is a low-grade silk variety.
Fabric features: woven with plain weave jacquard weave, tight weave, thick body, smooth silk surface, uniform color, stronger and more durable than real silk. Fabric application: suitable for men, women, old and young cotton-padded jackets, trousers fabrics and quilt covers, etc.
5. Aya
The four-woven fabric with obvious twill texture on the surface, or the pattern of mountain, grid and ladder in different oblique directions is called damask.
Fabric features: twill or various variations of twill are used as the basic structure, and the surface has obvious twill lines, or floral and plain fabrics with mountain-shaped, striped, and stepped patterns composed of different oblique directions.
Specifications and types: There are many varieties of damask, including plain damask and jacquard damask. The common varieties are twill silk, Suguang damask, Huaguang damask, Caizhi damask, beautiful silk, cotton thread damask and feather yarn.
Samples are: twill silk beautiful silk feather yarn
① beautiful silk
Fabric features: It belongs to damask fabric (twill silk), which is customarily called silk. There are two kinds of pure polyester silk and pure rayon. The fabric weave is twill weave or twill weave. , slightly stiff, bright and bright color, the opposite side is slightly darker.
Fabric application: It is suitable for lining of medium and high-end garments.
② Rayon feather yarn
Fabric features: cotton yarn and wax thread are used for the weft yarn, glossy rayon is used for the sanding, twill weave, the surface of the fabric is slightly hard and smooth, the front twill is shiny, the reverse side is matte, the texture is firm, but it is not suitable to knead and twist when washing. so as not to fluff,
Fabric application: used as the lining of various middle and low-end clothing.
6. Satin
Fabric features: all or most of it is satin weave (except for crepe satin woven with strong twisted yarn in warp and weft), the texture is tight and soft, and the silk surface is smooth and bright. The texture of the fabric is thick, the appearance is bright and smooth, and the color is rich, and the effect is more obvious when it is matched with jacquard.
Specifications and types: There are many varieties. The raw materials include mulberry silk, viscose silk and other chemical fiber silk, which are divided into silk satin, viscose silk satin, interwoven satin, etc.; according to whether it is jacquard or not, it can be divided into plain satin and flower satin.
Application of fabrics: Its use varies with varieties. The thinner ones can be used as shirts, skirts, headscarves, and costumes, and the thicker ones can be used as high-end outerwear, padded jacket fabrics, cheongsams, bedspreads, quilts and other decorative items.
Samples: crepe satin, plain soft satin.
① crepe satin
Crepe satin is made of flat warp crepe weft (strengthened twisted weft), five pieces of satin weave fabric.
Fabric features: one side has faint fine wrinkles, the other side has a satin appearance, the texture is tight and tough, it is not suitable for frequent washing, because it is easy to fluff after rubbing and kneading.
Application of fabrics: It is suitable for fabrics such as women's clips in winter and autumn, as well as fabrics for stage costumes.
② Soft satin
Fabric features: Usually it is a blend of mulberry silk and rayon, and there are also pure rayon fabrics. The warp and weft are not twisted, and it is woven with eight pieces of satin. , soft texture, fine twill style on the back, bright color, rich and elegant,
Fabric application: Suitable for men's and women's cotton-padded clothes, casual clothes, embroidered clothes, costumes, etc.
7. Crepe
Fabric features: Crepe is a kind of silk fabric with a crepe effect in appearance. Using technological means and structural means, combining silk twisting with plain weave or crepe weave, the weaving appearance presents a wrinkled effect. The appearance is unique, the luster is soft, the handle is smooth, and it has certain elasticity and anti-wrinkle performance. It is not easy to stick to the skin when taking it, and it is breathable and comfortable. Elastic silk fabric. The disadvantage is that the shrinkage rate is relatively large.
The method of forming crepe effect:
A uses different twists and different twist directions;
B warp and latitude tension difference;
C crepe organization;
D is embossed;
E uses different raw materials, which have different shrinkage properties, and the fabric is creped after post-treatment.
Fabric application: It can be used for men's and women's shirts, underwear, women's dresses, women's skirts, windbreakers and down jacket fabrics.
Samples are: crepe crepe, crepe crepe, crepe de chine, crown music crepe, sambo satin.
① Shun crepe
Crepe crepe is another style in the crepe category. The warp yarn is not twisted, the weft yarn is twisted, the S twisted yarn, plain weave, and the difference from crepe chine is that the weft twisted yarn has only one twist direction. After the fabric is bleached, the weft is twisted in one direction to form a forward crepe.
Fabric features: There are obvious straight wrinkles on the surface of the fabric, the style is novel and unique, and the texture is light and soft. In addition to the characteristics of crepe crepe fabric, crepe crepe has soft luster, good anti-wrinkle performance, soft hand feeling, light and cool, etc. Crepe crepe is more Crepe de chine is obvious and rough, with better elasticity, and the area of contact with the human body is reduced for more comfort when worn.
Fabric application: suitable for summer women's clothing, men's shirts, etc.
② Green crepe
Also known as single crepe, it is a plain weave fabric with flat warp and weft. The difference from crepe chine is that the weft is twisted in one direction.
Fabric features: The difference between crepe de chine and crepe de chine is that the weft yarn is a spiral twisted silk thread, which shrinks into a wave curve after scouring and dyeing, so that the crepe surface presents fine wrinkles with flash points, accompanied by spiral crepe lines. Crepe particles formed. The surface of the fabric has uniform and dense fine rib-shaped wrinkles, which is elegant and generous, with a large shrinkage rate (10%), good gloss, compact and fine texture, soft, smooth, elastic, and cool and comfortable to wear. But it should not be exposed to the sun after washing.
Specifications and types: From the appearance of the fabric, there are plain crepe, striped crepe, and plaid crepe.
Fabric application: crepe is often used in summer clothing, such as men's and women's shirts, coats, casual clothes, women's skirts, women's trousers, etc. In addition, kung fu pants made of crepe are more elegant, smooth, and not easy to wrinkle.
③ crepe de chine
Crepe de chine is called "Chinese crepe" in France. It is a plain silk fabric made of plain warp crepe weft. Because the weft yarn is strongly twisted and twisted in Z and S directions, it is twisted in two directions, so after refining and dyeing, weft The untwisting force and direction of the silk are different, so that the surface of the fabric presents uniform fine scale-like wrinkles.
Fabric features: The fabric is soft in texture, soft in luster, slightly elastic, has faint fine wrinkles, and has a large shrinkage rate. After sand washing, the fabric becomes thicker, delicate, soft, slippery, elastic, good drapability, washability and wearability are also greatly improved, which makes up for the wrinkle-prone defect of silk fabrics and improves wearing comfort. The crepe de chine sand-washed silk surface has fine and even fluff, which feels plump, soft and lustrous, simple and natural.
Specifications and types: according to the raw materials used, most of them are silk crepe de chine, but there are also synthetic fibers, viscose silk, interwoven crepe de chine, etc.; according to the dyeing and finishing processing, there are bleaching, dyeing, printing and other varieties. In recent years, silk crepe de chine has also appeared.
Fabric application: generally suitable for making men's and women's shirts, women's skirts, etc.
④ Crown Crepe
Fabric features: pure mulberry silk bag-woven high-flower crepe silk fabric, the product has soft luster and good three-dimensional effect of patterns.
Fabric application: mainly used as shirts and women's dresses.
⑤ Sangbo satin
It is a pure mulberry silk jacquard crepe fabric, the warp is not twisted, and the weft is corrugated, so it is called mulberry satin.
Fabric features: the satin pattern on the warp surface is bright and gorgeous, with slight wrinkles on the ground, soft luster, rich colors, and soft touch.
Fabric application: can be used as summer shirts, dresses, dresses, etc.
8. Ge
Generally, the warp yarns of kudzu fabrics are thinner than the weft yarns, the warp density is large and the weft density is small, and the surface of the ground pattern has relatively obvious horizontal ridges. Plain weave, warp heavy flat or sharp twill weave, warp and weft are made of the same or different types of raw materials, floral and plain fabrics.
Fabric features: Geda is thick and firm in texture, hard to the touch, and has less luster on the surface of the ground pattern. The kudzu fabric used for decoration has a rough appearance, more obvious unevenness of the horizontal ribs, and thick and fluffy core-filled weft yarns are embedded in the fabric structure or decorated with glittering gold and silver threads. Jacquard kudzu is a higher-grade decorative fabric. The kudzu fabric used for clothing is relatively light and thin, with fine texture and clear weave pattern. Generally, the warp is fine and the weft is thick, the warp is dense and the weft is sparse, the ground pattern is dull, and the surface has obvious horizontal ribs and convex lines.
Fabric application: It can be used as men's and women's shirts, skirts, winter padded jacket fabrics, etc.
Specifications and types: Ge can be divided into two types: plain Ge and jacquard Ge, which do not have flowers. Jacquard kudzu is made of satin flowers on the ground with horizontal ribs. The pattern is bright and smooth, with distinct layers of flowers and ground, and some are decorated with gold and silver threads, making the appearance more magnificent. The surface of Suge is plain and clean, with no patterns except horizontal ribs.
Samples are: Wen Shangge
Wen Shangge
Fabric features: Wenshang Ge is a kind of Ge. Pueraria silk is usually thin in warp and thick in weft, with horizontal ridges on the surface, less luster, and brighter on the reverse side. The warp is fine and the weft is thick, the warp is dense and the weft is sparse, the horizontal grain of the silk surface is obvious, and the texture is thick and firm.
Fabric application: It can be used as spring and autumn clothing, winter padded jacket fabric, seat cushion and sofa silk.
9. silk
Silk fabric is a kind of thin silk fabric, which adopts plain weave or through-hole weave as the ground pattern, and the warp and weft density is small. The warp and weft are often untwisted or added, weakly twisted mulberry silk or viscose silk.
Raw materials: silk, viscose, synthetic fiber, gold and silver silk, etc.;
Specifications and types: plain silk, striped silk, jacquard and trimmed silk in design and color. Fabric features: The fabric texture is light and elegant, and it is transparent, cool and breathable silk fabric with square and clear holes. Fabric application: suitable for various scarves, veils, veils, skirts and evening dresses, as well as high-grade interior decoration materials such as curtains, curtains and lampshades. Sample: satin silk
satin
Fabric features: smooth silk surface, fine bottom, light and transparent silk body, soft touch, besides sparse and transparent silk (plain weave) weave, there are also straight satin weave, that is, satin stripes are decorated on plain weave. Hence the name satin gauze.
Fabric application: suitable for wedding dresses, ballet dresses, fashion and children's wear, etc.